If your standard hardware store doesn't have this, you can try a plumbing store. All these together costs about two dollars. You sometimes can find these for really cheap at a specialty hardware store.
General hardware stores tend to charge a lot for the specialty washers and nuts. Can't get much cheaper than that! Assembling the Handle. This first step is pretty easy. Just attach the tee and end cap to one of the pipes to form a basic handle.
Feel free to tighten these parts together as much as you like. I recommend using the vise and a wrench. Don't use your hands, you'll just hurt yourself and not get it tight enough. Put one of the end caps in the vise as shown. It's doesn't have to be perfectly in the center, but the closer the better. You really want to use the vise because you're drilling through a quarter inch of galvanized steel. It's enough to bring weak drills to a dead stop and will definitely do a number on your hand if you just try to hold it.
Not mention it can get hot. Also little bit of machine oil or even vegetable oil can make this easier as well as preserve your drill bit. I like using a slow speed because when the bit comes out the other side it'll jerk from grabbing onto the metal. It's far more pleasant to have a slow jerk than to have the drill suddenly fly out of your hand.
Do this in a place that's easy to clean up. You'll make lots of metal shards. Outside is where I did it. And don't use you fingers to wipe away the shreds!!! They'll get in your skin. Use a brush, or blow the shards away. Do this for two end caps. The mounting requires the parts in the picture on the left. Bolt, two lock washers, flange washer, nut, wing nut, and a drilled end cap. Put a lock washer on the bolt and the put it through the end cap with the bottom of the bolt coming out of the top of the outside of the end cap like in the middle picture.
Put another lock washer on and then the nut. Put the end cap in the vise and tighten with a wrench. The lock washer will keep the bolt from turning. Lastly, take the remaining two pipes, screw them into the T joint of the handle, and attached the base and the mounting. And your done! You can tighten these parts as much as you'd like.
Either give them a good hand tightening or the full fledged vise and wrench tightening. The only reason not to do the vise-wrench tighten is if you want to be able to collapse this or swap components. You can vary the pipe lengths and barbell weight however you like. I would probably refer to this combination as the sport model. Mostly because it's balance point with camera is near the T-joint and can be spun around by the handle pretty well.
It's really agile. Longer bars and heavier weights change the handling. When you store it without the camera, the mounting washer is left hanging on the end. I recommend taking off the wing nut, putting on the washer, and then screwing the wing nut back on.
That will help keep it from getting lost. Sprinting down a hallway with camera about inches from the ground. Uses the inverting bracket to position the camera near the ground. The vertical motion is clean, even around the turn and up the ramp. There is a little side-to-side motion because I was only using one hand and not using the side handle. I did this run cold without any practice.
You should really practice a scene a few times and get used to what you'll have to do before you try to record it. Squash player practicing. The reason she is hitting softly is because she would probably kill me otherwise. Uses inverting bracket to dramatize viewing angle. Music Credit: YoYo Ma [amazon. This involves running along side and around a soccer player during practice.
The camera stabilizer and the inverting bracket are the only pieces of equipment used. Also demonstrates some of the dangers of field recording in active environments. Music Credit: Squirrel Nut Zippers [amazon. Tracking a subject walking through various environments. Fairly complex camera control, some not acheivable with many commerical stablizers. Rising from ground level to shoulder level while in motion, steep camera pitching, stair navigation, circular panning around subject while ascending a stairwell.
Get thrifty by turning an old gift bag into a make-shift glidecam rig! Next, consider the size of the lens you will be shooting on, and cut a wide-enough hole to allow you to shoot through in the side of the bag. You have a makeshift glidecam that you can carry for smooth tracking of a subject. Keep in mind, this method is best for low-lying tracking shots, like following feet or a character at a distance from a lower vantage point.
Instead, try…. Dollies, dolly track, cranes and jibs are some of the priciest production tools to rent and are time-consuming to set up. On a budget, there are some simple and fun alternatives you can consider. For example, one of the first-ever good dolly substitutes I discovered as a young film student was a wheelchair.
We were lucky in that one of my frequent collaborators had an old wheelchair around the house, and we were able to use that on a lot of our earliest films together.
When using a wheelchair, you can operate the camera while sitting in the wheelchair, or put the camera on a tripod and get out and push the wheelchair dolly yourself. You may have tried this before, but skateboards can make for a decent dolly replacement too. Sliding your camera on a tripod with cardboard is a surprisingly smooth ride, and works very effectively, especially if you can rig it with some type of handle to push it while standing up.
You can also use smaller pieces of cardboard to slide your camera on hard surfaces, like a kitchen table or nearby counter-top. You can use a cut of cloth to place under your camera to then slide along a hard surface like a table or countertop. As long as you go slowly, this will smoothen the shot and add a nice parallax style slider effect to your shots. Have a look at trick number two and three in this video by Hayden Pedersen, where he uses a towel as a slider and a desk chair as a dolly:.
Building rigs out of PVC pipe is how I first learned how to DIY my own steadicam rig, and thanks to some creative designers, they are still a viable DIY option for stabilizing your shots this day in age. However, my rig is definitely obsolete, so I wanted to research the type of rig would someone want to build if they did want to make their own steadicam out of PVC pipe.
In it, Collin shows how to use PVC and some counterweights to create a monopod-style rig with two smaller PVC arms as handles, which you can reverse 90 degrees to transform the rig into a shoulder-rig or to be held for low-angle glide-cam style shots. And last the PVC Fig Rig by Media Unlocked which is a more handheld, circular PVC rig that stabilizes the camera in the middle of the rig so you have more mobility as more of a glidecam kind of situation:. Because it is made of metal pipes as opposed to PVC, plan on this rig being heavier to operate.
I found the video was helpful and easy to follow, so for all the details on how to build this stabilizer, go ahead and watch that video to learn the components you need and how to assemble it. Most interestingly, for a counterbalance, he uses a flange, which he then screws a block of wood onto so that he can adjust the weight by adding a brick yes, a brick for a counterweight. Definitely, the most complicated rig to create from scratch, but if you simply must have a gimbal stabilizer for your DIY film shoot, this is the right method for you.
Using carbon fiber tubes and sheets, some brushless motors, a lithium-ion battery, and a controller board, it is possible to actually create your own two-axis brushless DSLR Gimbal camera stabilizer.
More by the author:. I drilled a hole through the top cap, using a clamp to stabilize it. Then the cap was added to the assembly. I cut it in half on the bandsaw. Then I cut it into quarters. Only three of the four are needed. A sanding block removes the burrs very quickly. I needed to remove the angle from the cut edge using a belt sander. This is what they looked like afterward. All three pieces needed this.
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