I'm not a chemist. You state companies are in the business to make money and it's up to the users to decide whether or not ALL of their recommendations are required in our shops. There is a difference between a recommendation and a requirement, and some companies state the latter.
A benefit was not found by you. Does anyone have findings to prove the chemical properties provide insufficient and unjustifiable product perfomance increases? For basecoat activator that is, not epoxy and filler. If you use 55 Line base without activator you can allow the clear coat to harden and apply tape to the surface and pull if off without negative results.
Maybe the OP should strip his project to bare metal and start over with Glasurit products so he will be able to take advantage of your extensive knowledge of those products.
Just make sure you confer with your helper first, just in case you forgot something :. What is the big deal? If basf says to put a hardener in to make it more durable why not do it? A simple tape test means nothing. Why is it so hard for some people to accept the fact that a multi million dollar paint company knows more about there own product and how to use it properly??
I have seen plenty of 54 line failures from back in the 80's and that was a deciding factor to change to a different company. Like I said before when using diamont we had to use bch2 hardener for warranty,it was not optional. Apparently, anyone who uses optional BC activator is wasting their money because they only have the company's word it's an enhancement. If it is indeed a benefit, why not use it?
You stated in post 10 you've given up on trying to cut corners. Only an independent lab and durability test will prove the claim. I foresee a legality issue if one does. The reason for the use of a hardener in the basecoat is for a couple reasons.
First it is required for the warrantied OEM repair. Also it is required for solvent base on flexible parts to make the basecoat flexible. It makes the product stronger due to it now crosslinking and forming a tighter bond with the clear. It can also help in the event of a rock chip, once the base is exposed it is less likely to absorb moisture and peel back around the chip.
It also makes re-repair easier as it helps against lifting. It also helps lower the VOC which is required in 3 stage applications. Big paint companies are like big oil companies they will sell or charge you for whatever they can. Does the activator add something to the mix using 55 Line? If you believe the Glasurit God than go with it. I never had a 54 Line or 55 Line failure do to age or anything else, what failures did you experience?
Clear will not separate from the base when applied within the recoat window with or without activator. Activator making the base MORE flexible is a new one on me. Does BASF publish anything online that makes these claims? I've read a lot of their online info but haven't seen that claim. I do see the benefit of it not lifting around an area that was sanded through but there are several other ways to address that same issue.
The chemistry behind adding an isocyanite additive to a base coat is the same regardless of the base coat system you use. Why the sudden focus on glasurit products. Is this a glasurit only forum. Or is that the only product that you can give advise on. If that's the case you never should have tried answering the OP.
Actually Glasurit are the products that I have the most experience with. I'm not saying that I know everything there is to know about Glasurit or anything else but I do have a lot of experience with it over the last 30 to 40 years.
If you don't want to ask or answer questions on the subject then don't. Personally that's why I'm here so if there's something I have experience with I post on it. This and your past statements, notably the words probably and maybe, indicate you doubt enhancement claims other than lifting prevention. That implies fraud and fabrications by the paint companies.
How can you see a chemical bond? What tests were done to disprove the claims? PPG has gods too I suppose, and their requirements may also be fabrications. Some paints will flow out and fill sanding scratches. It can't do any harm to have it or smooth. Your choice. Ransom--my DuPont procedural manuals advise a final sand with wet or dry before thinking about spraying color coats.
I sand the sandable primer coat with grit 3M flexible sanding pads the day of painting then spray a urethane sealer coat after solvent washing the sanded primer. The sealer helps to cover any missed sanding scsratches and makes a beter base for color or basecoat. Most paints are a little different. Follow the directions of the specific paint tha tyou ar eusing. X2 on the checking with your paint manufacturer. That may have been a recommendation for dry sanding with a DA sander where you can get away with slightly coarser grits than wet sanding by hand, but even then I personally wouldn't go coarser than We used to get away with on synthetic enamel jobs, but we also used to call it "stucco" when we shot it thick on rough cars.
For most paints I would follow the dry with wet, and then a coat of sealer. I would finish with grit hand wet block sanded. But, it is a challenge of finding the proper one for your project, right? Here is the auto body sandpaper grit chart for you. Looking at the chart will bring you an overall view of several common types of grit sandpapers.
Here are the most common types of sandpapers which we found on the market. As you can see, according to different purposes, we will pick up various paper types.
Therefore, if you want to create a great painting, you should take notice of the chart carefully. To reverse and bring back the beautiful state that your car once has you should take note of a few things that might become helpful in the future.
As a result, you will end up with a better look of your car, even better than it was. It is a simple job and you need to practice several times before attempting to do the project in reality so that the result will be able to satisfy you.
Do not worry too much and keep reading our easy-to-follow introduction. According to an experienced painting professor, you have steps to follow in order to get the best final result.
First of all, you need to grasp grit sandpaper. At the first stage, you use the paper to shape the outer coat of affected areas. Besides grit one, you also can use a notorious grit sheet to do the job, but that is not necessary. Since the grit type supplies sharp cuts, the sandpaper will leave deep unnecessary scratches on the surface so we should avoid this type altogether in order to perfect your car. Afterward, you are going to use — grit sander to smooth the rough ridges made by the initial step.
Well, for the clear coat, we highly recommend you not to skip the step. Without it, your final result will not be as good as expected. Sanding your car surface with — grit paper sets the surface as a primer or a guide coat. Afterward, the paint will stick to the areas better. If you want to paint directly on a primer base, you will need to do this step. That is using sandpaper with — grits to finish the surface. Then, you can use a sprayer to cover up working areas with enamel paint.
Last but not least, if you are a scrupulous one, you may want your masterpiece to be better. This is the color sanding and buffing stage. In step, you have to use , or grit sander to scrub the surface. According to many experiences, we think that the dry grit one is the best choice for you to start doing the step. Then, after creating flat surfaces, you will switch to sandpaper of grits to wash the surface in a wet sanding way.
Finally, you are done with all the steps from an experienced professor. You will be surprised by the smooth and shining final result thanks to the detailed introduction. Well, if you are a beginner in this job we will try to explain it as clearly as possible for better understanding. Sanding requires you to take a closer look at the working surface so the quality and the detail can be spotted more clearly to make your work precise and accurate. Like PM said above it should be fine when you clear it is a solid color.
No sealer. I only have black epoxy on hand and wanted the lighter gray under the red. Lesson learned nothing short of for final sanding.
If you blocked it like you would filler in a cross pattern those scratches seem to show more so then just sanding in straight lines. I will block the guide coat and shoot 1 or 2 more after allow that to dry and use a finer grit like The first coats are still kicking off and tightening up the second layer of coats will help with hiding any shrinkage issues from showing. If you did body work and primed once, blocked and painted in that time frame in about one month after the job is finished the likely hood of seeing sand scratches in the repaired area is pretty good.
If you reprime and sand then paint you greatly reduce the likely hood of that happening. As you sand the first coats you open the surface and allow it to breath out. It takes longer then 36hrs to truely fully cure out. If you sand it and can still smell fumes it is still doing it's thing. That is why if I'm doing something special I will prime something and forget about it for awhile and work on something else even if it means just taking a break. You should be fine with a solid color but that would be up to you the smoother you can make the base the more pop you will have when cleared.
Epoxy is the best sealer. Don't loose any sleep over it.
0コメント