Why corrosive ammo

Great ammunition, much more consistent than cheap steel case stuff but unfortunately corrosive. Corrosive primer are not the only thing that causes corrosion. Some gun powders will will corrode right through the brass cases while sitting in storage under normal conditions. I recently had examined 9mm ammo that I had loaded with Vhitavori N 10 years ago with new brass and bullets and federal primers. The powder corroded right through the cases.

The exact same bullets during the same time and stored next to each other were made with Winchester WAP were pulled apart and showed zero signs of corrosion. Basically Fantastic. After research a couple of of the weblog posts on your web site now, and I truly like your approach of blogging.

I bookmarked it to my bookmark web site list and will be checking again soon. Pls check out my website as properly and let me know what you think. Whats up there admin, I mainly wanted to actually leave a brief comment to mention that in fact I adored your information.

Keep up the very remarkable work and I am going to be returning again yet again relatively soon. It works well with corrosive ammo. And I would rather order it from Cheaper than dirt. Like silica gel? Those two things are unrelated. Fact remains that they are both readily soluble in water. This is not correct. There is a lot of Boxer-primed corrosive ammunition available that is corrosive, the largest example being US Army surplus. I have been shooting corrosive ammo.

That is about all I can find that is cheep enough to shoot on a regular basis from my M Time limit exceeded. Leave a Comment Your discussions, feedback and comments are welcome here as long as they are relevant and insightful. Please be respectful of others. We reserve the right to edit as appropriate, delete profane, harassing, abusive and spam comments or posts, and block repeat offenders.

All comments are held for moderation and will appear after approval. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. A foaming bore cleaner is also acceptable. Push a dry patch through with a jag when your barrel is sufficiently clean always push patches and brushes from the chamber to the end of the barrel. The next step is to wash out the corrosive salts left by the corrosive primers. This is done simply by soaking your firearms parts in hot water or by pouring boiling water down the bore of your rifle if submersion is not ideal.

Boiling water is ideal as it evaporates quicker. This step can be particularly tricky for semi-auto rifles because you need to thoroughly clean the gas system as this is where most of the corrosive salts will reside. My recommendation is to not shoot corrosive ammo in Direct Gas Impingement DGI rifles like the AR, as disassembling the gas system is a massive pain.

However, for short stroke gas piston rifles like the SKS and the AK, this is not too difficult to accomplish as these gas systems were designed to field strip easier. Make sure to pay special attention to the bolt face and bolt carrier group as there are lots of little nooks and crannies that corrosive salts can sneak into. There are some gunsmiths who recommend soaking in water combined with CLP or Ballistol.

These oils will both clean and lubricate your firearm parts after you remove them from the water, eliminating the need to dry your parts off. Every time I fired corrosive ammo in my Mosin Nagant, I simply used hot water or Windex to clean off my rifle parts.

To put it bluntly, this is just silly. You can use Windex to clean your firearm parts and bore, but make certain it is the unscented, original Windex with actual ammonia in it some new versions use an analog.

Water can corrode your firearm just as fast as corrosive salts can, therefore the next step is to displace all of that water we just introduced into our gun. If you used the water-Ballistol or water-CLP mixture in the previous step then you should be good to go. Whichever lube you use is completely up to you.

Regardless of which you pick, liberally lube your gun parts to ensure that all of the water is displaced by gun oil. As mentioned earlier, corrosive ammo is typically military surplus. Reducing the cost of shooting for an added step in cleaning is worth it for many shooters. Furthermore, it has sufficient accuracy at this price point. Surplus ammo is also very shelf stable and is typically packed for long term storage in spam cans or battle packs.

I'm trying to figure out just what Ballistol product you use. Some is called sporting oil, some is spray, some comes by the gallon. Exactly what Ballistol do you use and what size? Also, do you buy the spray cans? Any and all help appreciated.

It will turn into a milky color. Use these for your reserves. Fill a spray bottle with the mix and apply to your guns. If the solution separates from sitting just shake it up before use. After the above, do you still follow-up with Wipe out, or is using Ballistol stand-alone enough? The Ballistol only removes the surface Corrosive Salts. The 2-part oil can that came with my Mosin? They had specific Solvents to take care of the Corrosive Salts. I have heard that if they had no Solvents that they used to urinate in the Bore.

No joke. Supposedly, the Water and Ammonia in the Urine does a darn good job at flushing the Corrosive Salts out of the Firearm. I have been told spraying the inside of the barrel and bolt down with WD and running patches through it. Thoughts on effectiveness?

WD40 is generally the worst thing ever applied to a firearm. WD40 has made Gunsmith millions in Cleaning Jobs for the past 50 years, when, I repeat, when applied improperly.

The solvents in it will help clean the bore, and the Preservatives in the Solvent will help prevent corrosion till you get home. WD40 does displace water quite effectively. Realistically you will need an Air Compressor to blow out the WD40 properly. I've always heard you should use something ammonia based because the ammonia helps "neutralize" the corrosive salts, but what you're saying is that they are hydrophilic and attract moisture.

So the ammonia thing is an internet myth? What about using sweets 7. I figure there is enough ammonia in there to neutralize just about any acid and then follow it up with some CLP? Also due to the cold weather they need the primmers to ignite.

I love my Mosin Nagant. Nice bang; accurate. Love, love, love!!! Don't tell anyone, I am not following the rules. Everybody says pour water through it, or a patch soaked in windex I have been just cleaning normally with Break-Free, a brush and some patches, it seems OK.

Remember Love? Nothing some windex and elbow grease can't fix. Don't be afraid of corrosive ammo just make sure give a good cleaning after the range and should be g2g. Any water after shooting will be just fine. If you're shooting corrosive ammo through, say, Mosin during a battle, the barrel's going to be a little warm. All you need to do is run some snow through it plentiful in Mother Russia , it'll melt and take the primer salts with it, run your patch through, and that's probably what they did That often means new as of the 's barrels on existing receivers.

Slightly darkened in color, sure, but shiny. New barrels installed in the 's??? I've never heard of this Barrels that were shot out or rusted beyond recovery would sometimes get replaced back in ye olde days during the "prepare for World War III" rearsenaling in the Soviet factories, after World War II.

Fortunately, some of these crated and un-reissued rifles have made it over here. Why did they use black powder?